“It’s very, very relieving to see a gradual increase in serious Merlot outbreaks. The grape is not mellow, as America thought, and then didn’t, leaving Oz floundering and confused, but it should be intense and tannic, as this hot season Kiwi shows. It’s cheap, very fine, elegant, perfumed wine, which really needs a few years’ dungeon to see its halo properly fit. If you were to down it now, try rogan josh. If you wait, lamb’ll be perfect.”